by Elizabeth Everill

Castle Menzies, for almost 500 years the seat of the Chiefs of the clan Menzies, lies in the broad strath of the River Tay at Weem, near Aberfeldy. With its dramatic backdrop of Weem Rock rising sheer from its parkland, it is now one of the most beautifully sited and preserved castles in Scotland, with as lively a history to match. But the structure to-day belies its state twenty eight years ago.

Following World War II, when it was used as a Polish army medical depot, the castle lay empty. Walls and ceilings crumbled, floors collapsed and there was an extensive infection of dry rot. With the last of the direct line of Menzies chiefs having died in 1918, ownership of the castle passed through several hands till, in 1957, it was acquired by the Clan Menzies Society.

In 1972, Dr. A D Dewar, a local resident and historian, persuaded the Society to start renovations on the castle. Aided by a grant from the Historic Buildings Council for Scotland, the first phase of the exterior restoration began in September, 1972, and the interior two years later. Menzies Castle became a scheduled Ancient Monument and National Treasure, and was opened to the public in various stages, following 1980. For the first time the castle's history was displayed to the world.

The name Menzies (pronounced Mingis), originated in France, in the fiefdom of a knight at Mesnieres - en - Bray in Normandy. The knight, Robert de Maineriis, following Duke William in 1066, fought at the Battle of Hastings and was granted lands in Northumberland. The name, Maineriis, became Maynoers, Meyners and finally Manners. Part of the family, however, still bearing the French name had, by the 13th century, moved to Scotland. In 1224, Sir Robert de Meyners of Weem, generally considered first of the name in Scotland, was created Great Chamberlain by Alexander II. The name continued to be prominent at the Scottish court, changing slightly in spelling, but always retaining its French intonation, as it still does.

The Menzies family, renowned more for political deftness and love of learning over the centuries, rather than aggression and retaliation, has, nevertheless, a stirring war cry, 'Geal is Dearg a suas', 'Up with the White and Red', indicating a steely determination in the face of adversity. When, in 1502, the first stronghold at Weem was pillaged and burned by a neighbour, Neil Stewart of Garth, a greater castle was built in its place. In 1577, with defence no longer considered a priority, a series of dormers with their elaborate pediments, replaced the old fortified tower-house.

Although the anticipated peaceful times did not materialise for another two hundred years, Castle Menzies was never again attacked. It remains, to-day, a perfect example of a Z-plan building, transitioning the architectural design for the violence prior to the 16th century to that of the more domestic outlook of subsequent years.

Between 1644 and 1746, Clan Menzies chiefs, although never committing themselves to any cause, found their castle occupied either by fleeing or advancing troops. The list of famous names touching on Castle Menzies during this period reads like a 'Who's Who' of Scottish history; the Duke of Montrose, whose presence was not particularly welcome; General Monck's troops on Cronwell's side in 1646, and General Mackay with the King's Troop retreating from the battle of Killiecrankie in 1689.
But by far the most romantic figure to stay within the walls was Prince Charles Edward Stuart, who was given refuge by Sir Robert Menzies on 4th and 5th February, 1746, a fact corrorborated in the Prince's Household Book by James Gib, and by entries in the Weem Kirk Sessions Records. The Prince's bedroom in the castle is now restored and his death mask, one of the few remaining copper-bronze reproductions, is on display.

The 19th century brought peace and prosperity to Castle Menzies and the Chiefs. With the ascension of Queen Victoria came an interest in exploration, science in general and botanical study in particular. One of the clansmen, Archibald Menzies, born at Weem and educated at the local parish school, became one of the most prominant botanists in Great Britain, exploring British Columbia, Hawaii, New Zealand and Australia on Captain Cook's old ship, The Discovery. Many plants were named after him including the Banksia menziesii, Drosera menziesii and Hebe menziesii. Archibald died in 1842, but his work inspired the Chief, Sir Robert Menzies of Menzies and his son, Sir Neil, to plant between 1844 and 1903, nearly two million trees on the estate. Of this great arboretum, alas, only a few specimens survive, including a Ginkgo biloba, Thuhopsis dolobrata and Arbutus menziesii. A project to replace some trees is now in operation.

In keeping with the Victorian era,largescale entertaining took place at Castle Menzies. Lavish balls were held in the Hall and there was a constant stream of visitors. The Home Farm had good stock and produce from which the estate workers and the Chief's family benefitted. With the death, however, of Sir Neil Menzies of Menzies in 1910, the estate and castle began to show signs of deterioration. Great social changes, which were to sweep away the structure of Victorian life, had already begun to be felt.

When restoration work was begun by the Clan Menzies Society in the 1970s, Dr. Dewar and his late wife, Anne, did much of the clearing of rubble themselves, aided by clansmen and women, working on a voluntary basis. Anne contributed much to the artistic restoration of many of the rooms with splendid results, and they will remain a tribute to her memory.

Coinciding with this project, the old Kirk at Weem, dating from the 13th century and housing the mausoleum of the Menzies chiefs, was also restored, again under the direction of Dr. Dewar, ably assisted by Anne and Hamish Macdonald, a local resident.

Unearthed were the Menzies Memorial (1616), a unique carved stone cenotaph to the illustrious ancestresses of the family, a collection of Menzies and two 8th century sanctuary crosses.

Castle Menzies, no longer the seat of the Chiefs of the Clan, is now a Charitable Trust within the Menzies Clan Society. The ongoing restoration and maintenance is carried out according to funds available.

But for the present chief, David Menzies of Menzies, and for the countless members of the clan, scattered throughout the world, thoughts of home will always lie in Castle Menzies, once again the glorious bastion of yesteryear, and another jewel in the crown of Scotland.

© Elizabeth Everill. This article was first published by the 'Scottish Field' magazine in December 1999. There it was accompanied by several photographs, just two of which, a view of the castle and the interior of the bedroom of Prince Charles, are shown here.

Elizabeth Everill writes 'I have been a freelance writer since 1995, contributing to various national magazines on art, artists, writers, historical aspects of Scotland and equestrian subjects. Writing for the 'Scottish Field' has been a great pleasure. 'CHANGING FORTUNES' gave me the opportunity to highlight Castle Menzies, closely connected to my mother, who had spent a great deal of her childhood there, as did I. Having seen it in its ruinous state before 1972, it was a delight to witness its restoration by Dr. and Mrs. Dewar, who were most helpful in my research. With the magnificent photographs by Roy Summers of the 'Scottish Field' to accompany the piece, the article had pride of place at a meeting of journalists in the castle. What more could a writer wish!'